Hi everyone - good to hear from you..fancy snow in Uppermill - it's about 35+ here and getting more humid now we are in Varanasi. Alan - I've corrected the typo and it should now read leopard; Iain says they are not many leotards in the desert! Can you tell us how to change the settings Lizzy? We have not been affected by the unrest in Bombay and Assam and other places, so we're still here - India is huge! To get back to our narrative - we didn't much like Pushkar - very chaotic and pushy but the Hindu ceremony we took part in on the bank of the lake at sunset was atmospheric and touching. Jaipur was mad...colourful, dirty and very crowded - but the fort and city palace were spectacular. Then we went to Agra and saw the wonderful Taj Mahal - although it was somewhat misty due to all the fireworks set off the previous night to mark Duvalli (not sure how to spell it Alan!) . We loved the baby Taj - the inlaid marble was even more intricate and beautiful and predates the Taj Mahal and the crowds of tourists were far less so it felt more peaceful. We also went round part of the huge Red Fort - the biggest in India and very impressive although the British destroyed a lot of the inner buildings. We are taking far too many photos and although we have 10 megs will probably have to buy another card in Bangkok! We then had an overnight train to Varanasi - an experience we don't want to repeat too often but at least the train wasn't too late getting into Agra where we boarded and was only 2 hours late in Varanasi! Went to visit Sarnath where there are many archeological remains from where Buddism was born and Buddha preached his first sermon. We then managed to get down to the Ganges for the night time ceremony of fire where with thousands of spectators, 16 priests invoke the Goddess of the Ganges and her blessings. We watched from a rowing boat which at 5.30am today took us up and down the Ganges past the Ghats where one could see all the life of the river; people washing, swimming, washing clothes and praying. The edge of the river is filthy with rubbish but it doesn't seem to put them off. The two end Ghats are where bodies are cremated and are appropriately termed the Burning Ghats. We returned back to the bus through filthy but interesting narrow back alleys. We are off after lunch to see three temples and then it's an overnight train again to Delhi and straight on for us to Kathmandu - we just hope the train isn't too delayed! We will try and post again in a few days but it may have to wait until we return to Kathmandu in 7-8 days as Pokhara and Chitwan are unlikely to have broadband. Do let us know how everyone is - Phoebe must be growing apace! Lots of love from us both Ann & Iain

India impressions

Well - we're nearing the end of our sojourn in Northern India and now seems a good time to formulate our first impressions of India, the country and the people.
Firstly - cows rule the roads.
Secondly - all lorries bear a sign on the rear saying 'Blow horn' and all transport - lorries, cycles, bikes, tuc-tucs , cars etc - obey this injuncion incessantly - very necessary given the style of driving; overtaking on either side especially on bends and when encountering nomadic bands of Indians driving their herds of goats towards the south!
Thirdly - smells (good and bad), dust (everywhere) and vibrant colours (saris and materials vivid in the sunlight).
Rajasthan is a land of contrasts - richly decorated and intricately carved palaces and temples, cheek by jowl with dilapidated hovels. People are friendly in the villages but often less so in the towns where subsistence living makes begging of all forms commonplace; although the middleclass are actually increasing and the government subsidising schools so that you see the blue and white school uniforms everywhere.
Although we have been close to the Pakistani border there have been no obvious problems and the vast majority of people of different religions live harmoniously together as usual.
Areas of semi arid desert and greener more pastoral areas, mountains and plains make this state both varied and fascinating. Although quite green at the moment the monsoon rains were lighter than expected so there are likely to be problems later.
Tourism is also reduced at present and unemployment rising as the population grows beyond 1.2 billion. This causes pressure on jobs such that 1600 applicants for one engineering or computing job is commonplace.
Finally Iain must mention the walls! Mostly well built even though often of granite (the area is famous for marble and granite) and he has even seen a lunkey! Some walls are formed by inserting oblong slabs of stone into the ground and other field boundaries are often formed by dead hedging and even some hedge laying.
Whichever hotel we stay in we find there is something 'wrong' somewhere however plush it tries to be - but that's India and has its own charm! Examples in our current three star hotel are dodgy light switches, rickety toilet seats and no curtains in the bathroom.
Anyway it's eggs and more eggs for breakfast - boiled, fried, scrambled, omlette except here in Pushkar where no meat, eggs or alcohol is allowed.

After testing how many we could fit in a tuc-tuc to go to dinner - the answer is eight (actually usually three) - we had a long drive to Bhenswara where we stayed in a wonderful hotel - a former Rajput warrior's home - now a heritage hotel - with a small pool and wonderfully huge rooms! We chickened out of the leopard safari by jeep (they didn't see any) and sat around sipping Indian merlot (expensive but good) and listened to two Indians performing local music until the others arrived back for dinner. We are a group of eight (3 Aussies, I Kiwi and 2 Swiss)and get on well together... Next day we drove to Ranakpur and another lovely hotel with even better pool. Visited the Jain temple complex - amazing marble carvings. Introduced the two Swiss girls to Boggle this evening! Tuesday saw us driving to Kumbalhgarth fort with the allegedly next longest wall to the Great Wall of China. This is a large area filled with temples, a fort and palaces - all now disused but fascinating to wander around. We could have done with longer but there you are .. We are now in Udaipur - staying at a hotel without pool this time - on the banks of the lake. Went to a folk song and dance performance last night - very colourful - including a desert dance by a woman carrying nine pots on her head! Today we visited a Hindu temple and the palace and gardens full of fountains fed from the lake.. we have taken lots of photos but we promise to only show the edited version! Udaipur is a mini version of Delhi and when we go out we tend to be mobbed by friendly children wanting to know our names, where we come from and strangely they seem to want autographs - can't think why!! We are getting used to the heat and although I had a cough for a few days that seems to be settling. The noise and bustle are amazing but our hotel room is on the quiet side of the hotel! That's all for now, folks....hope to update again in a few days..lots of love to all Ann and Iain

Well we're here now in Jaisalmer - a wonderful desert yellow sandstone city in the Thar desert enjoying temples, forts, palaces, sunshine, great food and a lovely pool. Didn't like new Delhi so much but a visited a couple of Hindu and Jain temples which were very beautiful with carved fretwork of stone and marble. Our tour guide Karon is a great guy and has taken us to many interesting places already including some very good restaurants! In Jodphur the highlight was the famous Merhranger Fort. We have stayed in a variety of places already ranging from this palatial hotel to a small exquisite heritage hotel in a rural village of Chandelao which was a large converted house. The village children are great - all smiles and greetings, unlike in the city where the children are all wanting money, pens etc. Jaisalmer is much more to our liking - smaller and less hassleing. I have bought a couple of wonderful bedcovers from the women's co-operative there and am having them shipped to UK - takes about four months. Tomorrow we have an eight hour drive to Behnswara (a rural village, I think) so I probably won't be able to update the blog for a few days. We hope everyone is well...lots of love Ann & Iain

Well, we're on our way! We are currently in the lounge at Heathrow awaiting our flight to Delhi tonight. we just got the train at Manchester by the skin of our teeth - doors closing as I jumped aboard! we'll do our best to keep this blog updated...time and computers permitting. all good wishes to all our friends and family...lots of love Ann & Iain