New Year Greetings

Happy New Year and a happy, successful and healthy 2009 to everyone!
We are in the middle of the jungle and had a quite surreal evening with a karaoke and dancing with some fireworks - great stuff - hope you enjoyed your celebrations too! We also had some good floating down the river experience on inner tubes. I had to be pushed most of the way as my hands only just reached the water!
We think we managed to send a few text messages but reception will hopefully be better in Krabi where we drive to today so we'll try ringing later.
Lots of love Ann and Iain

Thailand

Spent 3 days exploring Bangkok - Royal Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun....all amazing places with hundreds of steps, carvings and gold. The Thai seem very fond of gold and all their temples and statues seem coated in gold or painted gold! The river ferry boats reminded us of the water taxis on the Grand Canal in Venice.
Following a night in a less posh hotel than the Sheraton we joined our new group down to the jungles and beaches of Thailand. Unfortunately for us they had all been together in northern Thailand treking so we are an add on! We spent the next two nights on rafthouses in Kao Sok National Park - a majestic place with towering limestone cliffs and the oldest rain forest in the world (allegedly). The journey took an hour by longtail boat across the lake to a dozen or so bamboo huts floating on platforms on the lake. The way to the loos was over planks balanced precariously between metal platforms and was very squeaky and noisy when one had to cross over in the middle of the night! The swimming was great as was the kayaking and a 3 hour walk up to a viewpoint was challenging but not too bad (for Ann) as the steepest part was clambering over rocks and most of the path was under the forest canopy. It was very humid and plunging in the lake was welcomed by all when we got back! The lake is manmade (a dam for hydroelectric power flooded the forest) in 1980 and unlike Halong Bay (which it resembles somewhat) it is almost deserted apart from some fishing villages of half a dozen floating houses and a few tourist rafthouse places so it felt totally isolated. Iain went out at night swimming and says that the stars were magnificent. We are now at Treetops for a night - still in the jungle but in houses built around trees. The whole complex will be great when its completed but there is still a lot of construction work going on and the pool has no water in yet. Luckily there are en suite facilities so Iain won't have to navigate the steep stairway in the dark! We have just come back from floating down the local river on inner tubes and are about to go and get ready for the festivities tonight! Mobile phone connection is patchy so if we don't manage to wish people Happy New Year personally please don't get upset! Also the time difference means that when we celebrate midnight it will be about 5pm your time. Have a great time everyone and all the best for 2009..lots of love Ann & Iain

Happy Christmas

A happy Christmas to everyone - it's very strange to be sitting in the hotel internet place with hot sunshine outside and Christmas carols wafting from the speaker system!
Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom were as spectacular as the guidebooks portray and we were amazed at the sheer size of it all! We also visited some 11th century carvings on the rock base of a stream and waterfall after a 2 Km walk under shady trees on a rocky uphill path. The walk would have been enjoyable of itself but the carvings were well worth a visit. On the way back we explored a small but exquistitely carved temple and a landmine museum, which reminded us of the tragic history of this beautiful country.
As in all South East Asian countries corruption is rife and politics uncertain, with a small percentage of rich people holding the power which means that unrest is likely to continue (e.g. Bangkok) .
We had an early start yesterday (5am) for the long journey to Bangkok through the border and into Thailand. The contrast with Cambodia is immediately evident as you cross the border with Thailand appearing much more prosperous and westernised.
We are staying at the The Royal Orchid Sheraton for 3 days as a Christmas present to ourselves and our 7th floor room has the most wonderful grandstand view of the river. We were sat watching fireworks over the river when we came in last night, having had a farewell dinner with our group. After 4 weeks together we finally say goodbye to our great guide Mr Pong this afternoon as he is taking a group of us around the Royal Palace. It is his day off but he wants to show off his home town to us! As a group 8 of us have been together for the full 4 weeks and really have got on together really well so we are very sorry to say farewell!
We hope Doreen et al are getting better and we hope to give you all a ring tonight (your morning/afternoon!). If we don't manage it have a great Christmas and a happy New Year... we will be in Kao Saok National Park in a raft house on a lake at New Year so unlikely to be able to contact people then. Lots of love Ann and Iain

Saigon and Phnom Penh

Saigon is manic with more motorbikes than we have ever seen - 50% of the population of 10million own one. Having enjoyed an afternoon in the hot springs and mud baths of Nha Trang after doing some sightseeing - white Buddha and Pagoda, Champa tower - rather like a mini version of Angkor Wat - we caught the overnight train to Saigon and arrived after a couple of hours sleep at 5am. We than had an excursion to the Cu Chi tunnels - a heavy place but rather vamped up for tourists. Had to have a rest then, so started to catch up on sleep. The following morning we travelled to the Mekong Delta and had a superb lunch of various seafoods - including elephant ear fish - with artistic sculptures of fisher folk made out of cucumber! We spent the aftyernoon on a boat visiting various cottage industries - very interesting to see how they make floor tiles, bricks and palm leaf rooves. We stayed overnight in a homestay which was better equipped than our previous ones although we all slept together in one room in army canvas cots. After an early breakfast we were rowed in twos on sampans to see a bonsai garden and then visited a floating market and a sweet factory where they made poprice - like popcorn - and cocnut candy - all very basic and health and safety would have a field day but it tasted good! Back on the coach to Saigon and we visited the Reunification Palace - a white elephant completed in 1966 which is now just a tourist attraction and used for conferences. For example the library contains a random assortment of books, in Vietnamese, French and English. We walked our feet off the next day but the Pagoda and the Cathedral we wanted to see were both closed! The War Remnants Museum was somewhat biased as you would expect apart from the journalists photos and copy which were distressing but interesting. There were also many drawings by children on the subject of war and peace on display, not all politically biased.

Now we are in Cambodia, in Phnom Penh, after a very random border crossing. As soon as one crosses the border there are many huge casinos/hotels cheek by jowel with hovels and rubbish. We drove through many miles of flat plains, many rice fields but also areas of apparent barren land. There seem to be many schools on the way into the city - and hordes of school children - presumably reflecting an increasing birth rate post war; but sadly also many handicapped youngsters. The streets are much less busy and one can usually walk on the pavements which makes a welcome change after Saigon. We walked this afternoon to Wat Phnom, a hill where an old woman called Penh discovered a Buddha statue in a log of wood, from which the city got its name. It has a fine Stuppa and Buddhist temple which show an interesting mix of Hindu influences and Buddhism. As to be expected there is a lot of new building work including many new pagodas and temples. Thats all for now, so lots of love, and we will try and update in Siem Reap next week. Happy Christmas to everyone.....Ann and Iain

Dear Hilary, Lizzy and Iain - good to speak to you the other day...hope Iain has a good birthday party and that we manage to get to speak to you all at Christmas when we are in Bangkok. Love to you all including Andrew, Erin, Phoebe, and Ryan...xxxxx Mum and Dad

Hue, Hoi An and Whale Island

Well, we had drizzle in Hue but enjoyed a day on a river boat dodging showers when we got off to see various mausoleums of long dead emperors and magnificently decorated pagodas and had a great time. It is amazing how dry one can stay under a plastic bag mac! Iain took a spectacular slide down some slippery steps but fortunately didn't even have a bruise to show for it - just more dirty washing! We then travelled to Hoi An - a lovely relaxing riverside resort with several interesting temples and halls where we stayed for two nights enjoying excellent seafood and relaxing in the riverside bars after having done the cultural bit. The sun came out for us so it was very pleasant especially as the hotel had a nice pool - in which we had a swim at 10.30pm despite the coolness of the water it was very refreshing! I also took the opportunity to have a bit of a haircut (which Iain perfected), and a massage - the lass was a much better masseuse than hairdresser! Then we had a ten hour coach drive to Whale Island which we reached via a boat journey of 15 minutes. A beautiful place which we all found very relaxing and no-one wanted to leave. Snorkelling was not great as the sea was plankton soup but many broght blue starfish and spiny sea urchins. We had a lovely 2 hour walk around the island as well. Now we are in Nha Trang for a day (look it up, Alan!) on the coast before taking the overnight train to Saigon tomorrow. Lots of love to everyone - Ann and Iain

Good to hear from Hils and Lizzy - can you get Iain to check in?
Lizzy - we're not sure about your music system - if you don't find it we'll take a look when we get home (on 25th Jan). Your Dad thinks it may be in his office. I've run out of credit on my phone but will try and get a Vietnamese Sim Card and ring soon if I can. The main problem is the time difference! Iain - we'll try and ring you on your birthday but if we don't manage it because we are in the Meekong Delta then, take a look at your bank balance on 16th and have a very happy birthday. Give Erin and Phoebe a hug from us...missing you all even though we are having a great time! loads of love Mum and Dad

Halong Bay

We have had a wonderful time in Halong Bay. Sailing around spectacular limestone karsts rising out of the South China Sea, on an excellent boat with private double cabins with tiled bathrooms. After a lunch of fresh tiger prawns, crayfish, octopus and grilled fish we relaxed on deck and then when the boat stopped we all went kayaking - our first time but it was very stable and we enjoyed it. Sea kayaks are apparently bigger and more stable than the small ones you see on TV doing white water racing. Unfortunately Iain had decided not to risk losing his glasses so couldn't see much and I had to yell steering directions but he still veered to the right! The sea was warm but there are so many boats in the bay it is beginning to get polluted and the current was strong so we didn't swim much. We had sea food again for dinner including stuffed crab and various prawns and fishes prepared in different ways and after a fairly reasonable night's sleep we sailed on to moor up and visit the largest cave yet discovered in the karsts. Unfortunately the boat had to dock at Halong Bay before midday so that was all we were able to do - we were hoping to go kayaking again! We also had to have lunch at 10.45 which seemed a bit strange but the food was so good that we coped! Once back in Hanoi (3.5 hrs drive) we repacked and sent a parcel of clothes etc to Hilary (just in case it turns up before we get home) and all went out for a meal in the evening. Today we went to say hello to Uncle Ho (Ho Chi Min) as he is now returned from his makeover in Russia. He looks good for someone dead for forty years! Then we visited the Museum of Fine Arts and the History Museum - both excellent and very interesting. We're back at the hotel again now and going out for a meal together before we catch the train at 11pm, so that's all for now. Lots of love Ann & Iain

Treking

Well - we're back in Hanoi having been out in the hills on local homestays for the last two nights. First night was unbelievably cold - even with clothes, sweater, fleece and two thick blankets cum duvets! But the walking was through lovely countryside, paddy fields and mountains; an easy 2hr incline on the first day followed by 15Km the second day, most of which was down the mountain - my muscles are still complaining and even Iain felt it! After an easy walk this morning and an excellent lunch in another white Thai village we had the 4 hour drive back to the city. The homestays were in Humong and White Thai village houses which had a large room for mattresses etc where we also ate. At least we were warm the second night and the washing facilities were marginally better! I'm glad it was only two nights though - makes you appreciate the creature comforts like a hot bath! The food was cooked by a couple of chefs who travelled with us and was excellent - amazing to see how they produced the meals in the homestay's kitchens over open fires and where you had to mind your head because of the stalactites of congealed smoke and grease of ages! Many houses (especially those of the white Thai) in the rural areas are built on stilts so the livestock roam underneath - very noisy at 5am! The hill tribes still worship their ancestors but 80% of Vietnam is Buddhist.
In Hanoi we have already spent a day sightseeing - a magnificent temple dedicated to Confucius (the original university and host to this year's graduation ceremony that afternoon), Ho Chi Min Mausoleum (he is back from a makeover in Russia but the mausoleum was shut so we will go and say hello on Saturday), the One Pillar Pagoda and the market where we bought flip flops and a torch that doesn't work! I also have had a beautiful Vietnamese over-dress and trousers tailor made which look fairly spectacular and I intend to wear at Christmas!
The market seemed to be mainly children's clothes in vast quantities and reflects the fact that the population, like most of SE Asia is weighted towards children. Here, as in India the Government is trying to limit the population growth but being quite unsuccessful in the rural areas. The economy appears to be growing with a lot of new houses (these look very strange as they are tall and narrow and contain one room on each floor due to rates being based on the width of the frontage).
Our first impressions are of the amazing number of small motorbikes and the lack of litter as compared with India. Roads are generally better and we enjoyed walking around the streets without being pestered (so much, anyway). Hanoi is much more laid back in feeling and considerably quieter than most cities we have been to recently.
Finally we are pleased to hear that Bangkok airport is open again without bloodshed but we feel considerable sympathy for anyone who had been stuck there including a woman who was supposed to be joining our tour and hasn't yet managed to.
We are off to Halong Bay for a night on a boat which should be good, and will be back for a day in Hanoi on Saturday before we take the overnight train to Hue (I think it is Hue but I don't have the itinerary to hand) so goodbye for now. Do keep in contact by posting - we love to hear from you all! Lots of love Ann & Iain
PS: Andrew:Tell me a few brands that are okay for you and I will see what I can get!