Treking

Well - we're back in Hanoi having been out in the hills on local homestays for the last two nights. First night was unbelievably cold - even with clothes, sweater, fleece and two thick blankets cum duvets! But the walking was through lovely countryside, paddy fields and mountains; an easy 2hr incline on the first day followed by 15Km the second day, most of which was down the mountain - my muscles are still complaining and even Iain felt it! After an easy walk this morning and an excellent lunch in another white Thai village we had the 4 hour drive back to the city. The homestays were in Humong and White Thai village houses which had a large room for mattresses etc where we also ate. At least we were warm the second night and the washing facilities were marginally better! I'm glad it was only two nights though - makes you appreciate the creature comforts like a hot bath! The food was cooked by a couple of chefs who travelled with us and was excellent - amazing to see how they produced the meals in the homestay's kitchens over open fires and where you had to mind your head because of the stalactites of congealed smoke and grease of ages! Many houses (especially those of the white Thai) in the rural areas are built on stilts so the livestock roam underneath - very noisy at 5am! The hill tribes still worship their ancestors but 80% of Vietnam is Buddhist.
In Hanoi we have already spent a day sightseeing - a magnificent temple dedicated to Confucius (the original university and host to this year's graduation ceremony that afternoon), Ho Chi Min Mausoleum (he is back from a makeover in Russia but the mausoleum was shut so we will go and say hello on Saturday), the One Pillar Pagoda and the market where we bought flip flops and a torch that doesn't work! I also have had a beautiful Vietnamese over-dress and trousers tailor made which look fairly spectacular and I intend to wear at Christmas!
The market seemed to be mainly children's clothes in vast quantities and reflects the fact that the population, like most of SE Asia is weighted towards children. Here, as in India the Government is trying to limit the population growth but being quite unsuccessful in the rural areas. The economy appears to be growing with a lot of new houses (these look very strange as they are tall and narrow and contain one room on each floor due to rates being based on the width of the frontage).
Our first impressions are of the amazing number of small motorbikes and the lack of litter as compared with India. Roads are generally better and we enjoyed walking around the streets without being pestered (so much, anyway). Hanoi is much more laid back in feeling and considerably quieter than most cities we have been to recently.
Finally we are pleased to hear that Bangkok airport is open again without bloodshed but we feel considerable sympathy for anyone who had been stuck there including a woman who was supposed to be joining our tour and hasn't yet managed to.
We are off to Halong Bay for a night on a boat which should be good, and will be back for a day in Hanoi on Saturday before we take the overnight train to Hue (I think it is Hue but I don't have the itinerary to hand) so goodbye for now. Do keep in contact by posting - we love to hear from you all! Lots of love Ann & Iain
PS: Andrew:Tell me a few brands that are okay for you and I will see what I can get!